The best season to visit Granada is the end of summer and beginning of autumn and spring. The city is packed with sights, sounds and smells waiting for the visitors to enjoy the monuments and secret places, besides the rich gastronomy.
Granada was the last of the Muslim cities to fall into the hands of Christians in 1492, who replaced the mosques with cathedrals. According to the legend, after the delivery of the key from the city to the Catholic Kings, the last Moorish King Boabdil and his retinue left Granada forever. Not far from the city walls, on the hill known as the Sigh of the Moor, the King stopped and looking at the familiar walls of the Alhambra, he only sighed. His mother Aixa turned back and said “Weep like a woman for what you could not defend like a man”
“There is nothing in life so cruel as being blind in Granada” Francisco de Icaza
Malaga-Granada is about a two hour of easy drive until you get into the city. Approaching Granada we found ourselves in a chaotic mess of buses, cars and narrow streets, until we safely left our car, a deadly weapon till the moment we arrived to a parking lot near the hotel.
We stayed at “Casa de Federico”, a charming boutique hotel in the Old Town, next to the Cathedral. The rooms are quite small, but well decorated. The only drawback is that there is no wardrobe, so our clothes remained happily in our carry-ons. http://www.casadefederico.com/
And then I became reconciled with Granada. We slowly began to discover this fabled city and its exotic past through the Nasrid palaces of the Alhambra.
SLEEPING IN STYLE
AC Palacio Santa Paula. http://ac.hotelsearch.com/achotelsantapaulagranada/index.html
A luxury boutique hotel located in the centre of the historic Town, decorated in a contemporary style. Excellent restaurant around the courtyard.
El Ladron de Agua http://www.ladrondeagua.com/english/index.html A magic place overlooking the Nasrid palaces of the Alhambra. A 16th century mansion to dream and rest next to the small stone fountain in the hotel’s charming Renaissance courtyard.
Barcelo La Bobadilla http://www.barcelo.com/BarceloHotels/en-GB/Hotels/Spain/Granada/LaBobadilla/Home
Located 70km from Granada, in the countryside of Loja, the hotel and luxury spa is a re creation of a Moorish village and an ideal place from which to explore the surroundings. Exceptional from every point of view.
GASTRONOMIC ROUTE
The terraces alongside the “Paseo de los Tristes”, next to the Darro River at the base of the Albaicin and the Alhambra. The stroll ends around the bull ring, for lunch or dinner at “La Ermita” or “Tendido 1”
Around Plaza San Salvador, at the centre of the Alto Albaicin, there are many “tascas” and terraces. Try the “tortilla de camarones” (Battered-prawn fritters)
Taste the snails of the “Aliatar”, Plaza Aliatar, 4, a family run bar famous for the secret sauce in which snails are cooked. http://www.bar-aliatar.es/
“Chikito”, Plaza del Campillo, 9, is a popular meeting point of socialites, and recommended for its cuisine. http://www.restaurantechikito.com/esp.htm
Have tea at the many exotic “teterías” (Moorish tea rooms) around the lower end of the Albaicin in the Caldereria Nueva and Caldereria Vieja streets.
Sweeten yourself with a real “pionono”, a cake made of eggs, sugar, flour, cinnamon and cream. The best is found at “Ysla”, Acera del Darro, 62.
Walk along the “Campo del Principe”, a square full of bars, restaurants and “tascas”, located down below the Realejo, once the Jewish quarter of Granada.
