We travelled around the border towns, besides visiting St. Jean de Luz, and Biarritz on the french side and on the Spanish side Hondarribia, the fishing villages of the Passaia, (Passi Donibani the best of four), San Sebastián, Getaria, Zarauz on the western coast and, inland, the heart of Guipúzcoa.
Sare, Zugarramurdi and Urdax are the border towns of the Pirineo Navarro. We stayed three days in the small and beautiful village of Sare. Half an hour is enough to visit the whole town, but we enjoyed a lot our morning walks along the surroundings. The scenery is the same we pictured in our childhood, green hills and valleys, small cottages on the top of the hill, sheep and cows spotting the view, rivers flowing through the valleys. The route of the caves begins in Urdax, and is better to do it by car. The myth of the Basque Witches says these caves were the place chosen to celebrate the “akelarres”, pagan rituals which lasted until dawn. In 1610, at Zugarramurdi, the Inquisition prosecuted almost 50 people charged of witchcraft. Eleven witches where burned at the stake.
The fishing port of St Jean de Luz is not longer the village it used to be, but the Old Town and the port worth a visit. The Rue Gambetta is the main road, full of restaurants and bars.
The Hotel du Palais in Biarritz brought us memories of the Belle Epoque, and the beaches (paradise for surfers) are beautiful. The historical Hondarribia is a picturesque fortified town, a blend of cobbled streets, monumental sights, iron balconies, ancient houses showing the coat of arms in the front door, former residence of nobles and fishermen houses in the seaport. The Castle of Emperor Charles V, in the Plaza de Armas, has been remodeled into a Hotel, one of the many Paradores of Spain, owned by the Government.
There a a lot of routes along the heart of Guipúzcoa. For the most enjoyable views, I recommend two:
· Take the N-634 to Elgoibar, then take the GI-627 to Bergara, and afterwards take the GI-2630 to Oñate, and continue your way to the Shrine of Arantzazu. Oñate and Bergara are both aristocratic monumental towns, set on the rural landscape.
· Take the GI-631 towards the Sanctuary of Loyola, a must stop. Continue towards Azkoitia, Zumarraga, Ezkio-Itsaso and finally Urretxu. This is a wonderful road along the Urola River.
Finally, from San Sebastián we took the N-634 to Zarauz and Getaria, on the western coast. We passed by Zarauz, a nice coastal village with a beautiful beach and reached Getaria just in time for a walk through the village and a gorgeous lunch at the fishing port.
WORTH A VISIT
SARE Maison Ortillopitz. A true basque home from 1660, in the top of Sare. Inside, a recreation of the 17th Century way of living. www.ortillopitz.com
ST JEAN DE LUZ Fishing Port, St Jean Baptiste Church where Louis XIV and the Spanish infanta, Marie-Thérèse, were married in 1660, Old Town – Rue Mazarin
BIARRITZ Place St. Eugenie. PromenadeFishing Port. Excellent restaurants for a romantic dinner.
HONDARRIBIA Jaizkibel panoramic road, late in the afternoon you will witness a stunning sunset, Church of Santa Maria, Old Quarter, Plaza de Armas – Carlos V Castle, Fishermen´s quarter
SAN SEBASTIAN Bahia de La Concha. A beautiful walk along the promenade, Old Town, beaches
Casco Viejo, originalmente cargada por mdmag
Title: Soldadito Marinero
Artist/Group: Fito y los Fitipaldis
