Title: Greatest Hits
Artist/Group: Sublime

Pancho is my 20 year old son who will be in Bali next month.  So, Pancho, this is for you.

You will arrive to Denpasar Airport, located south of Kuta, some 20 minutes away.  On arrival, you will have to do three things, mainly. First, change money for cab fair and minor expenses, second get from the airport to your destination and third go to the beach!!!.  

CHANGE MONEY.  Be careful when changing money. The Indonesia currency is the rupiah. There are many exchange offices in the airport arrivals hall, always check the exchange rates, you should know how much you should be getting for your dollars, and always count your money twice. Banks and money changers are easy to find in main cities, most offices have a sign saying money change and a board showing the prices.  Avoid free lance money changers in the street.  Right now you will get 9.150 Rupiah for 1 US Dollar.  As an example, a bottle of 1.5 litre of soft drink will cost you RP 9.500, a cheese burger RP 12.000, a T-Shirt RP 30.000 to 80.000.  Always ask for RP100.000 notes, for they are easy for you to count and not easy for the money changers to miscount.

GET FROM THE AIRPORT TO YOUR HOTEL.  Inside the airport you will find a pre paid airport taxi service, prices are posted at the airport taxi office, outside the airport you will meet dozens of taxi drivers offering to drive you to town, but it is safer to choose an established taxi company, like Bluebird.  Have plenty of change and be sure the driver sets the meter.  Taxis in Bali will often allow 4 or more passengers to ride, you may sit on the other’s lap.  If you want to walk 3km, which I believe will not be your choice; you may follow the road to Kuta. 

GO TO THE BEACH.  Kuta Beach is the most famous beach in Bali, just 2.5 km away from the airport.  So, as soon as you arrive to your hotel, check in, leave your baggage and go to the beach!!!.

Title: Je t´aime…moi non plus
Artist/Group: JANE BIRKIN

We arrived at 10 p.m. to our hotel, which turned out to be very nice but rooms were very small and quite uncomfortable for a one week stay.  We spent the first night at the hotel, but the choice was clear, we were leaving the morning after to another place, may be we should rent an apartment for a week; this should be a good option. 

The best neighborhoods to stay are Recoleta and Palermo, Puerto Madero is also very nice but relatively far from the shopping area and restaurants.  Recoleta is an elegant, luxurious and safe area, walking distance from boutiques, restaurants and bars.  It has also an excellent transport connection to many other interesting areas of the city.  At night the neighborhood is quiet and calm, nightlife has moved to Palermo, another residential area full of parks and green areas, with an interesting offer of designer’s shops, fashion stores, art galleries and a lively nightlife.  Bars and restaurants are usually open till 2 a.m., when its time to move to one of the many dance clubs.

OUR TOP CHOICES

The choice is endless, from luxury and stylish hotels to furnished apartments for rent, apart hotels and bed and breakfast.

For those who love luxury in a traditional style:  Four Seasons Hotel Buenos Aires, www.fourseasons.com/buenosaires The building combines the main tower constructed in 1992 and recently renovated with a Belle Époque style Mansion from 1920.   It is one of the oldest mansions in the Recoleta area.  

For those who love luxury and modern design in historical buildings:  Palacio Duhau Park Hotel, http://buenosaires.park.hyatt.com/hyatt/hotels/index.jsp  Former residence of the Duhau family, the hotel opened in 2006 and is located on Avda. Alvear, Recoleta. 

For those who love chic boutique hotels:  BoBo Hotel & Restaurant, http://www.bobohotel.com/  This small bohemian bourgeois setting is located in a quiet area of Palermo Soho, walking distance of restaurants and shops.  It also features a gourmet restaurant, open form 8a.m to 1a.m.

For those who love hotel chains:  Hotel Sofitel Buenos Aires, http://www.sofitel.com/sofitel/fichehotel/gb/sof/3253/fiche_hotel.shtml  Located on Arroyo Street, an area of antique shops and art galleries.  The Café Arroyo, next to the stunning lobby, is a trendy spot for a business lunch or an after office drink in a retro style ambience.

Young and cool:  Home Hotel, http://www.homebuenosaires.com/home/  Fashionable hotel located on Palermo Hollywood, featuring a nice garden with a heated swimming pool and a barbecue for summer “asados”.   Five Cool Rooms, http://www.fivebuenosaires.com/ A hip hotel in a great location for shopping and dining.

Title: Mi Corazón
Artist/Group: Tango Club Bajo Fondo

Buenos Aires is the largest city of South America and the gateway to Latin America as Madrid is to Europe.  Buenos Aires is modern, elegant, dynamic, a city of contrasts, with a vibrant nightlife and European culture. The French and Italian influence in buildings of Recoleta, the combination of row houses and apartment blocks and the colorful “conventillos” (joint houses) of La Boca neighborhood are a true exponent of its eclectic architecture.  Buenos Aires nightlife is a glamorous showcase of trendy bars and clubs, classy restaurants, theaters and art galleries.  You must remember that in the austral hemisphere seasons are the reverse than those in the northern hemisphere.  The best season to visit Buenos Aires is autumn and spring, the months of March, April, September, October and November.  Summer can be very hot and winter can be chilly and wet, sometimes freezing. 

ARRIVING

Major airlines fly to Ezeiza International Airport, near Buenos Aires.  Domestic flights arrive to Aeroparque, Jorge Newberry Airport.  The best way to get to B.A. from the international airport is to take a “remise”, similar to a taxi but charging a fixed price.  “Manuel Tienda Leon” bus company is a semi public transportation which will take you right downtown at the right price and once there you may take a taxi to your final destination. There are booths for both services in the lobby.  If you need to exchange money, look for the window of Banco de la Nacion or for an ATM.   Ezeiza is located about 35km from downtown. http://www.aa2000.com.ar/  

We are planning to stay in Buenos Aires for a week, enough time I guess to get to know the city and visit the surroundings.  The choice of the hotel was an arduous task.  Finally we decided to book at the Art Hotel, a funky and charming boutique hotel located in Barrio Norte. www.arthotel.com.ar  

Title: Arabian Nights 1
Artist/Group: Buddha Bar
It was so hot that my mind and body needed to relax by the sea.  So we decided to head towards the Costa de la Luz in southern Spain.  The Costa de la Luz has the nicest beaches of Andalucía, so we packed our beachwear and began our journey.  Our first stop was Tarifa, where the Mediterranean Sea meets the Atlantic Ocean.   I felt a bit disappointed by the town and its beaches, despite its historical and cultural past. The town is attractive to walk around but that’s all.  The beaches are so windy that wind-surfing or kite-surfing are a must, but don’t expect to stretch a towel in the sand and lie over it for more than 10 minutes.  Our hotel was our best reward.  The Dos Mares Hotel is located in Playa de los Lances, about 5km far from Tarifa and decorated in a Moroccan style, featuring 35 bungalows amidst palm trees and cactus.  http://www.dosmareshotel.com/

We set our base in Zahara de los Atunes, a small fishing village with wonderful beaches, not as windy as those of Tarifa and a great spot to discover the adjacent beaches and towns. We spent the mornings lazing in the sun and the early afternoons sleeping “siesta”. We also had fabulous culinary experiences and made delightful discoveries of the surroundings.  In short, we had a wonderful vacation.

ARRIVING.  You may take a bus from Malaga direction Cadiz.  The company that runs the route Cadiz-Zahara de los Atunes is Transportes Generales Comes.  http://www.tgcomes.es .  The journey will last about 2 hours, and it will cost approximately 7€.  We arrived Zahara by car, which was the best option to visit the surroundings comfortably. From Malaga take the E-15 Malaga-Algeciras-Cadiz.  In Los Pastores, take the E-5/N340 and follow directions to Zahara de los Atunes.  The drive will last 2 hours and a half, (200km)

SLEEPING.

ZAHARA DE LOS ATUNES. There are many accommodations in Zahara de los Atunes and the local area.  We stayed at El Cortijo de Zahara, http://www.hotelelcortijodezahara.com/ingles.html  located beachfront in the Bahia de la Plata, about 4km from Zahara, next to The German´s Beach, Playa de los Alemanes.  The style and architecture are those of a typical Andalucían villa, the bedrooms and restaurant have magnificent views of the ocean and the courtyard is a delight full of jasmines and bougainvilleas.

CAÑOS DE LA MECA.  Hotel La Breña. http://www.hotelbrena.com/en/index.php This cozy small hotel, seven rooms only, is located seafront facing Africa, next to the spectacular La Breña National Park.

VEJER DE LA FRONTERA.  Hotel Casa Cinco. http://www.hotelcasacinco.com/   The hotel is located in the centre of the Old Town of Vejer de la Frontera, beaches 10km away.  Vejer de la Frontera is a lovely small town located in a hill near the coast.  Hotel Sindhura, http://www.hotelsindhura.com/html/indexGB.htm   

EATING and DRINKING

Being in Zahara de los Atunes, we are supposed to find the best tuna in the World and almost every restaurant offers unless one tuna based dish.  I prefer it  “a la plancha”, grilled with vegetables.  Casa Juanito, in Zahara, is a good place to begin.   Chiringuito Los Sueños is a beach bar in Atlanterra where to taste a good wine and some tapas, excellent kitchen.   There are many restaurants along the coast offering mainly fried fish “pescaito frito”, also a specialty of the region.  “Jonnhy” in  Atlanterra, has well a decorated terrace where to have a drink watching the spectacular sunset. La Luna and La Gata in Zahara are also very nice places to enjoy live music.  La Jaima, over Playa del Pirata in Caños de la Meca is a hip bar and disco settled in a Moroccan tent with cushions in the floor.

BEACHES.

The best beach is Playa de los Alemanes, next to Cabo de la Plata in Zahara de los Atunes, though there are no restaurants or “chiringuitos” nearby.  Playa de Zahara is a long extension of sand, very windy, perfect for windsurfing, and full of restaurants and small beach bars.  There are some magnificent beaches of natural beauty hidden behind the pine forests of Caños de la Meca.  Playa del Pirata, is the most popular, also the area of the Faro de Trafalgar has a nice sheltered beach.

El Palmar, the seafront of Vejer de la Frontera is well-known among young people for the practice of surf and kite surf.   

http://www.placerdetrafalgar.com/index_english.htm

Title: Mil y una Noche
Artist/Group: Rosana

GUADIX CAVE DWELLINGS Northeast of Granada we drove through a strange landscape showing an exotic maze of clay caves and green oasis.  In the exotic walled town of Guadix half of the inhabitants seem to live underground in the cave houses of the Troglodyte Neighborhood,  “Barrio Troglodita”.  The cave-houses date from the 16th Century, when the Moors were expelled from Spain.  Some of them did not leave and stayed in those underground shelters.  Though the place was full of tourists wandering around, the old town is worth a walk to visit the Cathedral, the Alcazaba fortres and  other mudejar buildings near the cave district.  We stopped for lunch at “Meson Granadul”, c/San Miguel, 4 a nice Spanish restaurant specializing in cured hams and great for tapas. You can also buy regional products.  

Back to Granada we took the A-92 and then A-4100 to Purullena and Cortes, two picturesque and charming towns, with cave houses carved into the hills and whitewashed in and out. Chilies hand outside the walls, and onions and squash lay outiside on the ground to dry before the are stored in the inside. 

 How to get there.   Guadix is located off the A-92 Autovia de Andalucía, about an hour drive east of Granada city.

THE ALPUJARRAS  The town of Lanjaron is the gateway to The Alpujarras, a beautiful region with white towns around mountains and valleys.  The route is about 85km long from Lanjaron, thought it may take more than a day’s journey to discover its white villages and landscapes full of flowers, chestnut and walnut trees.  There are bars and restaurants and the main villages offer good hotels if you choose to stay overnight, which I would recommend.  The highest village, Trevelez, famous for its ham, has an altitude of 1.476 meters.  The last gas station is in Origiva, the largest  village of the region.    

How to get there. A car is the only option if you plan on seeing the whole region in one day or better two. You need to drive from Granada along the A44,then the A-348 until Lanjarón.  You should take a map showing the itinerary, otherwise you may get lost. Start in Lanjaron, followed by the town of Orgiva, then Capileira, Bubion and Pampaneira in the Valley of Poqueira. Other towns are Portugos, Trevelez and Cadiar.  Outside Portugos is Fuente Agria, a ferrous spring of naturally carbonated water with medicinal properties.

After exploring the Alpujarras a good option if you have a car is to go to the coast instead of going back to Granada.  Then Nerja should be your next stop.  Nerja is called the “Balcon de Europa”, from the centre of the old town there are incredible views of the Mediterranean Sea.  Outside Nerja we took the N-340 along the coastline towards Malaga, only 55km away. 

PLAN YOUR TRIP – USEFUL WEBSITES

http://www.guiacampsa.com/gcampsa/es_en/home/home.aspx?codidioma=2

  http://www.nerja.org/turismo_ing/index.php

http://www.andalusia-web.com/route_9.htm

http://www.guadixymarquesado.org/www9/index13marco.htm

Title: Facing East
Artist/Group: Thievery Corporation

The Architectural importance of Granada is based on the mix of cultures that have inhabited the place since the dawn of history, Ibero-Celtics, Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Greek, Visigoths, Byzantines, Jewish.  The city reached its maximum splendor under the Nasrid Dynasty, and between 1238-1492 the estate was known as the Kingdom of Granada.  In 1492 the forces of the Spain Catholic Monarchs captured Granada, though many Muslims continued living in the town and their customs were respected until 1499.

LA ALHAMBRA http://www.alhambra-patronato.es/   The Alhambra is always a magic place, but during the night the views are awesome.  Night visits to the Nasrid Palaces are open throughout the year and to the Generalife between March and November.  Check timetables, for the Alhambra does not open in the night session every day.  Buy your tickets in advance for there is a limit for morning tickets and afternoon tickets. Ticket reservation phone: 902441221

Alhambra means red fort in Arabic. It rises in a strategic hill location above the city, like a reddish exotic castle that once was the royal residence of the Nasrid Dynasty.  The Nasrid palaces are the main complex, the former residence of the Kings of Granada, a series of halls and chambers open into “patios” (courtyards) with center pools and fountains.   The water running between the fountains marbles represents purity. Do not leave The Alhambra without a walk around the Generalife Gardens, the summer residence of the Muslim Royalty located in the vicinity of the Alhambra, very near to the Nasrid Palaces.  The stroll is a pleasure for all senses. 

ALBAYZIN  http://www.albayzin-granada.com/ The Albayzin is the old Moorish quarter of Granada, located on a hill facing he Alhambra.  Each corner of the narrow cobbled streets surprised us with white facades and  flowered balconies.  The “carmenes”, are the typical houses with beautiful gardens and fruit trees in the interior “patios”.  At sunset the Mirador San Nicolas becomes the best place from which to admire the Alhambra.  

HAMMAM  http://www.hammamspain.com/  Relax in a hammam. Situated behind the former mosque of Santa Ana, below the Alhambra, the Hammam of Granada is the first Arab bath recovered in Europe.  Five centuries ago, the hammams were the center of Nazari social life, surrounded by a steamy environment, Andaluci music and soft light.

SACROMONTE  The Sacromonte is an enchanted neighborhood next to the Albayzin, on a hill which overlooks the Alhambra. The gypsies settled here when they came with the catholic troops which conquered the city and established the roots of flamenco. As the sun sets down, people begin to climb the steep streets to enjoy a bewitching night of flamenco.  The Sacromonte is famous for its “zambras”, gypsy dance celebrations that take place in the caves excavated from the soft rock of the hillside, now converted into restaurants, flamenco bars or museums. I would suggest taking the bus to the top and then walk down, with a stop at “Casa Juanillo”, the best restaurant to taste the region specialties. http://www.granadainfo.com/juanillo/english.htm   The most popular caves are:  “El Curro”, “Maria la Canastera”, Sacromonte 89, “La Chumbera”, Sacromonte s/n.  

The best season to visit Granada is the end of summer and beginning of autumn and spring.  The city is packed with sights, sounds and smells waiting for the visitors to enjoy the monuments and secret places, besides the rich gastronomy.  

Granada was the last of the Muslim cities to fall into the hands of Christians in 1492, who replaced the mosques with cathedrals. According to the legend, after the delivery of the key from the city to the Catholic Kings,  the last Moorish King  Boabdil and his retinue left Granada forever.  Not far from the city walls, on the hill known as the Sigh of the Moor, the King stopped and looking at the familiar walls of the Alhambra, he only sighed.  His mother Aixa turned back and said “Weep like a woman for what you could not defend like a man”

“There is nothing in life so cruel as being blind in Granada” Francisco de Icaza

Malaga-Granada is about a two hour of easy drive until you get into the city.  Approaching Granada we found ourselves in a chaotic mess of buses, cars and narrow streets, until we safely left our car, a deadly weapon till the moment we arrived to a parking lot near the hotel.

We stayed at “Casa de Federico”, a charming boutique hotel in the Old Town, next to the Cathedral.  The rooms are quite small, but well decorated.  The only drawback is that there is no wardrobe, so our clothes remained happily in our carry-ons.  http://www.casadefederico.com/  

And then I became reconciled with Granada.  We slowly began to discover this fabled city and  its exotic past through the Nasrid palaces of the Alhambra.

SLEEPING IN STYLE

AC Palacio Santa Paula. http://ac.hotelsearch.com/achotelsantapaulagranada/index.html

A luxury boutique hotel located in the centre of the historic Town, decorated in a contemporary style.  Excellent restaurant around the courtyard.

El Ladron de Agua  http://www.ladrondeagua.com/english/index.html A magic place overlooking the Nasrid palaces of the Alhambra. A 16^th century mansion to dream and rest next to the small stone fountain in the hotel’s charming Renaissance courtyard.

Barcelo La Bobadilla  http://www.barcelo.com/BarceloHotels/en-GB/Hotels/Spain/Granada/LaBobadilla/Home

Located 70km from Granada, in the countryside of Loja, the hotel and luxury spa is a re creation of a Moorish village and an ideal place from which to explore the surroundings.  Exceptional from every point of view.

 GASTRONOMIC ROUTE

The terraces alongside the “Paseo de los Tristes”, next to the Darro River at the base of the Albaicin and the Alhambra. The stroll ends around the bull ring, for lunch or dinner at “La Ermita” or “Tendido 1”

Around Plaza San Salvador, at the centre of the Alto Albaicin, there are many “tascas” and terraces.  Try the “tortilla de camarones” (Battered-prawn fritters)

Taste the snails of the “Aliatar”, Plaza Aliatar, 4, a family run bar famous for the secret sauce in which snails are cooked.  http://www.bar-aliatar.es/

 “Chikito”, Plaza del Campillo, 9, is a popular meeting point of socialites, and recommended for its cuisine.  http://www.restaurantechikito.com/esp.htm

Have tea at the many exotic “teterías” (Moorish tea rooms) around the lower end of the Albaicin in the Caldereria Nueva and Caldereria Vieja streets. 

Sweeten yourself with a real “pionono”, a cake made of eggs, sugar, flour, cinnamon and cream.  The best is found at “Ysla”,  Acera del Darro, 62.

Walk along the “Campo del Principe”, a square full of bars, restaurants and “tascas”, located down below the Realejo, once the Jewish quarter of Granada. 

While we went through the province of Jaen the strong smell of olives in the air anticipated our culinary adventure in Andalucia.  From the moment we set in the captivating monumental Baeza on our way to Marbella, we knew this would be an unforgettable experience.  Our lunch at “Juanito”, a restaurant offering traditional meals with an avant-garde touch was a delight.  “Juanito” is also the venue for the prestigious gastronomic journeys which take place every February and March. Once in Marbella the culinary offer was endless, from international restaurants to tiny bars in the Old Quarter. 

As for Andalucia, each area has its own culinary specialties.  Coastal areas include dishes as fresh fish and seafood, the refreshing gazpacho, “frituras” (servings of small fried fish), fresh fruits, tomato, garlic, olive oil, the typical Mediterranean diet.  “Chiringuitos” are typical beach bars serving simple and delicious dishes as fresh salads, paella, char-grilled sardines (espetos)  and  seafood.  Pork, duck, game, a wide variety of sausages and the renowned cured ham are inland specialties.  You cannot leave without tasting the Iberian Ham “Jamon Iberico de Bellota” or “Pata Negra”, the Spanish cured ham of Jabugo. http://www.jamondepatanegra.com/

Next day we had a little talk during breakfast and decided to stay in Marbella for one more day only and then pack and leave. Besides going to the beach and walking around Puerto Banus and the Old Town, there is very little to do in Marbella unless your aim is just beach and food.   So this was our last day in Marbella and agreed to make the most of it. 

DO’S

• During the summer, until September 15, there is a multi-ethnic zoco on the “Antonio Banderas” Square of Puerto Banus. This wonderful zoco consists of 35 jaimas spread all over the square offering a wide variety of objects, arts and crafts, clothes and bijou from different countries, mostly from Morocco. Opening hours:  11a.m. to 2p.m. and 5p.m. till midnight.

• SUITE – SUITE DEL MAR.  An Arabic-Oriental style restaurant and nightclub at Hotel Puente Romano.  During July and August it relocates to its beachfront location.  As dinner comes to an end, a glamorous and sophisticated crowd begins to arrive. Also open for lunch in summer, with wonderful sea views on a tropical setting. Next to the entrance, on the beachfront, there is a charming sui generis  “jaima”, (a kind of tent used by nomads in the desert) in which a Moroccan guy sells all kinds of clothes and decorating objects, and will probably share a delicious cup of mint tea with you and your friends.    http://www.suiteclubs.com/main.html  
• EL CORTE INGLES – PUERTO BANUS Probably the best Corte Ingles of all Spain.
• OLIVIA VALERE Built and decorated in a Moorish style, this huge and pricy nightclub also has several bars, a restaurant and outdoor terrace.  Open from June to September. http://www.oliviavalere.com/index_eng.html   
• Try the best fish and seafood at Casa Antonio, Muelle Ribera, 9, Puerto Banus.
• Have dinner at Trader Vic’s Marbella, a midsummer exotic night’s dream.  You must taste the Polynesian style cuisine and the original Mai Tai, simply wonderful.  Ask for a table in the courtyard area.  Located at the beginning of Puerto Banus, Urbanización La Alcazaba, tel. 952 816 100.

DON’TS

·         Avoid the Saturday morning street market of Nueva Andalucia, around the bullring opposite Puerto Banus.  I found it quite messy and very crowded though I was told it was the best art and antique market in all Southern Spain. 

·         Don’t go for a walk around the Old Town on early afternoon.  You will probably find a ghost town.  Everybody is taking a nap or at the beach, and stores are closed.

·         Instead of the large Shopping Center “La Cañada”, choose Marina Banus, http://www.marinabanus.com/inicio_eng.htm , smaller but essentially the same.

Title: Si tu no estas aqui
Artist/Group: Rossana

Our first day was all about discovery. First thing was the beach, a five minute walk from our hotel.  At noon and after a full morning of lazing on the beach we  set off in our beach wraps for a walk along the “Paseo Marítimo” to have lunch at “Victor’s Beach” a hip and cool “chiringuito” (beach bar) ten minutes walk along the coast. If you go by car, exit left at Urb. El Ancon, Carretera de Cadiz Km 177.

After a nap at the hotel and with no hurry, we went for a walk around the Marina (docks)  of Puerto Banus, an experience that cannot be missed.  The “Muelle Ribera” is an impressive showcase of the most amazing yachts in the whole world.  Some of the rich and famous park their boats there just sitting on the luxurious decks to see and be seen.  We enjoyed our window shopping tour along the boardwalk, where designer shops as Missoni, Dolce & Gabbana, Bulgari , Gucci and many more blend with an array of al fresco restaurants and bars.   The streets are full of luxury vehicles such as Ferrari, Hummer, Masseratti, Rolls Royce, Porsche driven by its owners with their special pass.  

At dusk we headed to Marbella for dinner, but it was too early, so we strolled along the narrow streets of the Old Quarter, through old churches and squares like the Orange Square surrounded by gardens and orange trees.  The tiniest street is Calle San Lazaro, where we stopped at the bar “El Estrecho” for some tapas and “croquetas”, the best in town. http://www.barelestrecho.es/    

For dinner we choose “Bar Altamirano”.  Located in the Plaza Altamirano with splendid views of the illuminated church this restaurant was great.  We managed to grab a sit in the terrace at the Plaza, asked for a sangria, delicious “chipirones” (fried baby squid), then grilled fish. Talking, drinking, eating, dreaming as time went by.  

For drinks after dinner we went where the night buzzes:  back to Puerto Banus.